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The No-Tipping Point (Rebroadcast)

The restaurant business model is warped: kitchen wages are too low to hire cooks, while diners are put in charge of paying the waitstaff. So what happens if you eliminate tipping, raise menu prices, and redistribute the wealth? New York restaurant maverick Danny Meyer is about to find out.

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Episode Summary

Executive Summary: This episode examines Danny Meyer’s push to eliminate tipping at The Modern and replace it with “Hospitality Included” pricing. The discussion focuses on why tipping distorts restaurant wages, deepens front- vs. back-of-house inequality, and may be economically unsustainable. Early results suggest the new model improved hiring, morale, and profitability without raising total customer checks.

Main Topics: Why Danny Meyer Wants to End Tipping (Priority: 5/5): Meyer argues that tipping creates an artificial two-pocket system, separates service from food cost, and makes restaurant economics and hospitality feel adversarial. Wage Inequality Between Front and Back of House (Priority: 5/5): The episode shows how tip-based pay has driven a large compensation gap between servers and kitchen staff, even when kitchen work is equally hard and highly skilled. Restaurant Economics and Labor Shortages (Priority: 4/5): Because restaurants operate on thin margins and depend heavily on labor, Meyer sees tipping as worsening staffing problems, especially in the kitchen. Hospitality Included Pricing Model (Priority: 5/5): The Modern replaces tips with higher menu prices that bundle service into the bill, while raising kitchen wages and maintaining server compensation through revenue share. Customer, Worker, and Business Effects (Priority: 4/5): The episode explores whether no-tipping improves customer experience, employee satisfaction, hiring, turnover, and profitability—and whether it can scale beyond a high-profile restaurant. Broader Critique of Tipping Culture (Priority: 3/5): The transcript revisits arguments that tipping is discriminatory, inconsistent, and unlike norms in many other countries, reinforcing Meyer’s reform agenda.

Key Arguments: Tipping is economically unsound because it lets restaurants underpay workers while outsourcing wage responsibility to customers. The American restaurant menu price is misleading; the real cost of dining includes service, so bundling it into the menu is more honest. Front-of-house employees have been rewarded far more than kitchen staff, largely because tips scale with menu prices rather than effort or skill. The tipping system makes restaurants less competitive for kitchen labor, contributing to shortages and high turnover. A no-tipping model can improve morale by removing guilt, resentment, and the sense that servers are personally 'pocketing' customer payments. The Modern’s early results suggest the model can be profitable while attracting more applicants and reducing turnover. The reform is both a business decision and a social-justice correction to a system that cannot be fairly shared with back-of-house staff under current law.

Data Points: Americans eating Thanksgiving in restaurants: roughly 15 million - Used in the introduction as a hook about restaurants and tipping trends. Restaurant first-year failure rate: 60% fail within first three years - Illustrates how difficult the business already is. Restaurant profit margin: about 7% - Given by Abram Bissell to show how thin restaurant margins are. Front-of-house salary growth: over 300% - Across Danny Meyer’s 30-year span at Union Square Cafe. Culinary team salary growth: mid-20% to early-20% range - Same period, showing back-of-house wages lag far behind. Senior server annual pay: about $50,000 - Example of front-of-house earnings at The Modern before the switch. Senior cook annual pay: about $24,000 - Example of back-of-house earnings at The Modern before the switch. Cook shortage: about 14 cooks short - The Modern was about 50% short in the kitchen during a severe staffing crunch. Culinary school cost: $30,000 for six months - Pamela Vachon’s culinary education, highlighting high training costs versus low pay. Kitchen wage increase: from less than $10/hour to $12/hour for lowest-paying jobs; cooks start at $14/hour - Part of the Hospitality Included rollout at The Modern. Front-of-house base wage increase: from $5/hour to $9/hour - Servers received a higher base hourly wage under the new model. Average customer gratuity: 21% - Used by Meyer to estimate the old average tip and set new pricing. Kitchen applications increase: 270% on average - Reported after the HI rollout at The Modern. Server applicant pool increase: 25% first month, 100% second month, 215% most recent month - Meyer cited these increases as evidence the model attracts workers. Profitability change: December 2015 was the most profitable December ever for The Modern - Early post-rollout financial result. Customer bill change: about the same as before - Union Square said the total check should remain roughly equivalent to pre-HI dining plus tip. Customer review/service quality: up about 12% - Meyer claimed OpenTable and feedback indicators improved after the change.

Pivotal Quotes: "The American menu price structure is completely false, but we've been taught to believe that it's real." — Danny Meyer: Explaining why he objects to the standard restaurant pricing and tipping model. "We were actually co-conspirators in a system that was completely unsustainable." — Danny Meyer: Describing why Union Square Hospitality decided the tipping system had to change. "Doing the right thing is the most profitable thing." — Danny Meyer: His broader justification for Hospitality Included after early financial results looked strong.

Implications: If no-tipping models prove durable, restaurants may need to reprice transparently, raise kitchen wages, and rethink service norms. The episode suggests such reforms can improve hiring, retention, and fairness without harming business.

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Freakonomics co-author Stephen J. Dubner uncovers the hidden side of everything. Why is it safer to fly in an airplane than drive a car? How do we decide whom to marry? Why is the media so full of bad news? Also: things you never knew you wanted to know about wolves, bananas, pollution, search engines, and the quirks of human behavior. To get every show in the Freakonomics Radio Network without ads and a monthly bonus episode of Freakonomics Radio, start a free trial for SiriusXM Podcasts+ on...

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