Plain English with Derek Thompson
Plain English with Derek Thompson

The Spectacular Rise and Fall of Fake Meat in America

For the past 50 years, Americans have basically responded to the case against eating animals by eating more animals. The share of Americans who call themselves vegan or vegetarian hasn’t increased in the past 20 years. But a few years ago, I was certain that we were near peak meat, thanks to the ris

Topics Discussed

Episode Summary

Executive Summary: The episode examines the rise and decline of plant-based meat, arguing that Beyond Meat and Impossible succeeded as a moral and technological story but failed at the dinner table. Early hype, celebrity/investor enthusiasm, and fast-food expansion drove growth, but repeat purchasing, taste, cost, and weak health advantages limited adoption. The result: a category that looked transformational in TED talks but proved fragile in real consumer behavior.

Main Topics: The origin story of plant-based meat (Priority: 5/5): Beyond Meat and Impossible were founded to mimic animal meat with plants, using different scientific approaches: Beyond emphasized reassembling plant components, while Impossible focused on heme to recreate meat-like flavor and appearance. Hype, capital, and cultural prestige (Priority: 5/5): The companies won over investors, celebrities, and conference audiences by promising environmental, health, and animal-welfare benefits while also offering a profit-making consumer product. Commercial breakthrough and pandemic boom (Priority: 5/5): The category surged through supermarket placement, restaurant partnerships, and pandemic-era novelty demand, with 2020 becoming the high point for sales and attention. Why the category stalled (Priority: 5/5): Demand proved shallow among meat eaters, health claims were overstated, and many consumers did not view the products as genuinely healthy or worth repeated purchase. Fast-food validation vs. real consumer retention (Priority: 4/5): Big chains like Burger King and Dunkin' provided visibility, but many plant-based items were later removed or not expanded, revealing that awareness did not translate into durable menu success. Cell-cultured meat as the next hype cycle (Priority: 4/5): The discussion broadens to lab-grown meat, which has major funding and celebrity support but remains expensive, unproven at scale, and still subject to consumer resistance. Why alternative milk succeeded where fake meat struggled (Priority: 4/5): Milk substitutes benefited from lactose intolerance, ingredient status (not main course), and easier substitution, making them more compatible with everyday use than meat alternatives.

Key Arguments: Plant-based meat products were compelling because they promised environmental, health, and animal-welfare benefits without requiring policy change, only a consumer swap. The core target market was meat eaters, but they were not frequent repeat buyers, while vegans and vegetarians who bought most often were too small a segment to drive growth. Health messaging was stronger than the evidence; doctors saw these products as at best a lateral move from conventional fast food, not truly healthy foods. Fast-food partnerships created awareness but did not guarantee sustained demand, since chain menus prioritize broad appeal and taste tests often failed to keep products on menus. The pandemic temporarily boosted sales through novelty, at-home cooking, disposable income shifts, and meat shortages, but that demand was not durable. Cell-cultured meat faces even steeper obstacles than plant-based meat: scale, cost, energy use, and the psychological 'ick' factor. Milk alternatives succeeded because they serve as substitutes in a supporting role, while meat alternatives ask consumers to replace the centerpiece of a meal.

Data Points: Beyond Meat stock decline: down more than 80% from its all-time high - Used to illustrate the collapse in investor confidence after the boom years. Impossible layoffs: more than 20% of staff - Shows the company’s contraction after the market cooled. Vegan/vegetarian share in the U.S.: barely increased in the last 20 years - Explains why the key customer base for plant-based meat did not expand meaningfully. U.S. meat consumption trend: Americans have eaten more meat per capita over each passing decade - Provides the macro backdrop against which plant-based meat was trying to grow. Sales of fresh meat alternatives: 5.3 million units in eight weeks ended April 25, 2020 - A pandemic-era spike in consumption during the early months of COVID-19. Year-over-year sales surge: 3 times the amount of a year earlier - Same Nielsen data point showing how dramatic the 2020 boom was. Supermarket refrigerated plant-based meat sales: down 14% by volume - 52 weeks ending December 4, according to IRI. Restaurant plant-based burger orders: down 9% - 12 months ending November 2022, showing weaker foodservice demand. Cell-cultured meat funding: over $2 billion raised - Indicates strong investor backing despite unresolved scale and cost issues. Performance of early IPO: most successful IPO in a decade - Beyond Meat’s 2019 public offering is described as the biggest of its kind since the financial crisis.

Pivotal Quotes: "We're going to take a double-digit portion of the beef market. We're going to send meat into a death spiral." — Pat Brown (Impossible founder): An early declaration of the company’s ambition to disrupt the beef industry. "The share of Americans who call themselves vegan or vegetarian has barely increased in the last 20 years." — Derek Thompson: Sets up the central growth problem for plant-based meat. "food is really hard" — Dina Schenker: Her summary lesson about why food businesses often overestimate how easily consumers will change habits.

Implications: The episode suggests that food innovation must win on taste, price, and repeat use—not just moral narrative or investor enthusiasm. Future alternatives may succeed only if they fit everyday eating patterns better than plant-based meat did.

🔓 Sign Up for Unlimited Episode Search

About Plain English with Derek Thompson

View all episodes from Plain English with Derek Thompson