Ones and Tooze
Ones and Tooze

The Thanksgiving Episode

Why are turkeys actually cheaper around Thanksgiving? And what is the origin of Black Friday? In this holiday rerun episode, Adam and Cameron talk turkey about the origins of Thanksgiving, how it’s celebrated today, and the things that they’ve been most thankful for in the past year. Brought to you

Featured Speakers

Adam Tooze Host

Topics Discussed

Episode Summary

Executive Summary: This Thanksgiving episode examines the holiday through an economic and historical lens: turkey prices, food inflation, travel patterns, and the commercialization of Black Friday. It also reflects on gratitude, with personal notes on Twitter, the New York Jets, vaccines, and friendship, framing Thanksgiving as both a consumer event and a reminder of social ties.

Main Topics: The economics of Thanksgiving meals (Priority: 5/5): The hosts discuss how much Americans spend on Thanksgiving, the rising cost of a classic feast, and why even a noncommercial holiday has clear market dynamics. Turkey supply, pricing, and cold storage (Priority: 5/5): They explain turkey market seasonality: turkeys are produced year-round, frozen, and sold during a demand spike, with low supermarket margins and 2022 supply pressure from avian flu and input inflation. Thanksgiving travel and family geography (Priority: 4/5): The conversation explores how many Americans travel for Thanksgiving, what that says about family distance, and how education and income shape whether people live near relatives. The historical origins and exclusions of Thanksgiving (Priority: 5/5): They contrast the popular Pilgrim-Wampanoag origin story with the holiday’s later national codification and its complicated relationship to Native American history and colonial violence. Black Friday and the commercialization of the holiday season (Priority: 4/5): The hosts trace Black Friday from department-store promotions and Philadelphia police slang to a nationwide retail institution marking the start of Christmas shopping. Personal gratitude and social connection (Priority: 3/5): In the second half, both hosts name things they are thankful for, including Twitter, the Jets’ mediocrity, vaccines, and hosting friends—using gratitude to reflect on community and well-being.

Key Arguments: Turkey demand surges in late November, but prices can drop or remain manageable because the birds are produced year-round, frozen, and released from cold storage when demand peaks. Supermarkets often treat turkey as a low-margin traffic driver, making money on higher-margin items bought alongside the bird rather than on the turkey itself. 2022 turkey prices were unusually high because avian flu reduced supply and feed/input costs rose broadly across the food chain. Thanksgiving travel patterns reflect American geography: many people live far from family due to labor-market sorting, while others remain near relatives because of lower income or education. The traditional Thanksgiving origin story is historically incomplete; the modern national holiday was shaped in the 19th century and sits atop a longer history of colonial expansion and Native dispossession. Black Friday became a major retail event as stores used Thanksgiving weekend to launch Christmas shopping, and its name shifted from describing chaos to symbolizing profit. Gratitude is tied to relationships and public health: the hosts imply that vaccines, friends, and community interactions are among the most valuable things in life. The personal reflections suggest that even seemingly trivial or frustrating attachments—like Twitter or sports fandom—can become meaningful parts of one’s social identity.

Data Points: Average consumer Thanksgiving spending: $448 - Amount American consumers will spend on average on Thanksgiving this year. Cost of a classic Thanksgiving feast for 10: $64.05 - American Farm Bureau Federation estimate for a traditional meal in 2022. Year-over-year increase in feast cost: 20% - Increase from the prior year in the cost of the classic Thanksgiving feast. Turkey prices in 2022: 15%–20% higher - Described as rising depending on the market due to avian flu and supply-chain pressures. Birds removed by avian flu in the US: 45–50 million chickens and turkeys - Estimated losses to bird populations during the avian flu outbreak. Turkey in cold storage before Thanksgiving: 500–600 million pounds - Quantity of turkey sitting in cold storage in the US in the week before Thanksgiving. Turkey margin for supermarkets: 20–30 cents per pound - Low profit margin on turkey compared with higher-margin meats like beef. Passengers expected to travel for Thanksgiving: 4.5 million to 20 million - TSA-based travel estimate discussed by the hosts, with skepticism toward the lower figure. American adults living within an hour of some family: 55% - Pew survey figure cited to explain family proximity and Thanksgiving travel. Chinese Lunar New Year travel movement: Just shy of 80 million people - Used as a comparison for large-scale population movement. Chinese population share moving for Lunar New Year: About 5% - Benchmark for comparison with Thanksgiving travel patterns in the US. Twitter signup year (Adam): 2015 - Adam says he joined Twitter seriously in 2015. Vaccination count mentioned: Fifth dose - Adam says he has now had his fifth vaccine shot. Dinner guests hosted by Cameron: 16 people - Cameron describes hosting multiple friends in Berlin for Thanksgiving/birthday week.

Pivotal Quotes: "Thanksgiving is famously a holiday that is not commercial in nature. There are no presents that are exchanged on this holiday, but of course, there's an economic dimension to everything, and Thanksgiving is not excluded from that." — Cameron Abadi: Introduces the episode’s central premise: analyzing Thanksgiving as an economic event. "The margins on turkey are in the order of 20 to 30 cents per pound, as opposed to a couple of dollars on beef, for instance." — Adam Tooze: Explains why turkeys are sold cheaply and how supermarkets profit from associated purchases. "I mean, I have to say, like I my dad died during the pandemic, and not of the pandemic, but during it. And he never saw the end of lockdown, really." — Adam Tooze: Reflects on why vaccines and the return of normal social life are a major source of gratitude.

Implications: Listeners get a compact lesson in how holiday traditions are shaped by markets, history, and social behavior. The episode suggests Thanksgiving is best understood as both a consumer system and a ritual for reinforcing relationships and civic memory.

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About Ones and Tooze

Foreign Policy economics columnist Adam Tooze, a history professor and a popular author, is encyclopedic about basically everything: from the COVID shutdown, to climate change, to pasta sauce. On our new podcast, Tooze and FP deputy editor Cameron Abadi will look at two data points each week that explain the world: one drawn from the week’s headlines and the other from just about anywhere else Tooze takes us. Check out Adam Tooze’s column at https://foreignpolicy.com/author/adam-tooze/.

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