Why aren't there more Native American restaurants? | Sean Sherman

Episode Summary

Executive Summary: Sean Sherman argues that Native American cuisine was erased by colonialism, forced assimilation, and food-system disruption, not by lack of culinary tradition. He traces how land theft, boarding schools, and commodity foods severed intergenerational knowledge, then calls for indigenous-run restaurants, food sovereignty, and renewed education in native plants, agriculture, and stewardship.

Main Topics: Erasure of Native American cuisine: Sherman explains that indigenous foods are largely absent from mainstream U.S. food culture despite being foundational to the land and its history. Colonialism and land dispossession: He links the disappearance of Native foods to colonial policies, land grabs, and the reduction of indigenous control over territory. Boarding schools and loss of knowledge: He describes how forced assimilation and military-style boarding schools interrupted the transfer of food, language, and ecological knowledge. Commodity foods and health impacts: He contrasts traditional diets with government commodity foods, connecting poor nutrition to diabetes, obesity, and heart disease. Indigenous food diversity and education: He highlights the breadth of indigenous food systems, including plants, animals, agriculture, preservation, and stewardship across regions. Food sovereignty and future restoration: He advocates for indigenous-run food businesses, community gardens, and local control of food systems as a path forward.

Key Arguments: Native American food is not missing because it never existed; it was systematically suppressed through colonialism and assimilation. Understanding colonial history is necessary to understand why indigenous cuisines were displaced and why they remain underrepresented. The destruction of bison, land loss, and reservation systems directly undermined indigenous foodways and survival. Boarding schools severed the transmission of culinary, ecological, linguistic, and cultural knowledge across generations. Commodity food programs replaced nutrient-rich traditional diets with low-quality foods, contributing to chronic disease. Indigenous food systems are diverse, sustainable, and regionally adapted, offering lessons for modern food security and environmental stewardship. Restoring indigenous food knowledge can improve health, strengthen communities, and support cultural revival. Indigenous-run restaurants and food businesses should be common because they reflect the land and history of North America.

Data Points: U.S. indigenous tribes: 573 - Sherman cites the number of tribes in the United States to emphasize ongoing indigenous diversity. Canadian indigenous tribes: 634 - He references the number of tribes in Canada as part of a broader point about indigenous diversity across North America. Mexico indigenous population: 20% - He notes that a significant share of Mexico identifies as indigenous. Land under indigenous control at start of 1800s: over 80% - He says most of the land mass was under indigenous control at the beginning of the 19th century. Land under indigenous control by end of 1800s: less than 2% - He attributes the collapse in land control to reservation systems and colonial expansion. Bison population by end of 1800s: less than 500 - He cites the near-extinction of bison as a deliberate blow to indigenous food systems. U.S. citizenship for Native people: 1924 - He notes that his grandparents were born before Native Americans were legally recognized as citizens. Voting rights for Native people: 1965 - He says Native Americans could not vote until this year. Religious freedom for Native people: 1978 - He says Native people could not fully celebrate religions until this year.

Pivotal Quotes: "all of its history begins with indigenous history" — Elise Hu: Introductory framing for why Native food history matters in the U.S. "If we can control our food, we can control our future." — Sean Sherman: His closing argument connecting food sovereignty to long-term indigenous self-determination. "we need to be celebrating diversity instead of trying to build stupid walls to keep people out" — Sean Sherman: He broadens the talk from food to inclusion, cultural respect, and policy.

Implications: The talk reframes Native food as a living, restorative system tied to health, culture, and sovereignty. For listeners and the food industry, it suggests a need to support indigenous producers, learn local ecologies, and rebuild food systems around stewardship and diversity.