In Our Time
In Our Time

Archive: Coffee

Misha Glenny delves in to the In Our Time archive to select ten episodes for listeners to revisit. His second choice, first released in December 2019, is the history and social impact of coffee. From its origins in Ethiopia, coffea arabica spread through the Ottoman Empire before reaching Western Eu

Topics Discussed

Episode Summary

Executive Summary: The episode traces coffee’s journey from Ethiopian/Yemeni origins and Ottoman religious use to a transformative global commodity. It shows how coffeehouses reshaped sociability, news, politics, and business in Europe, while plantation expansion relied heavily on slavery in the Caribbean and Brazil. The discussion ends with coffee’s modern reinvention through branded, specialty, and urban café culture.

Main Topics: Origins and early legends of coffee (Priority: 5/5): Coffee’s origin story is linked to Ethiopian goat-herder legends and early religious use by Muslim mystics for staying awake during prayer. The drink began as berries/cherries or infusions before becoming roasted coffee. Spread through the Ottoman world (Priority: 5/5): Coffee moved via Red Sea trade, Mecca pilgrimage routes, Yemen/Mokka, and then into Constantinople and the wider Ottoman Empire, where coffeehouses became male sociable spaces for conversation and hospitality. Coffee enters Western Europe and London coffeehouses (Priority: 5/5): Ottoman merchants and Levant-connected intermediaries brought coffee to places like Venice and London. London’s first coffeehouse (c. 1652) rapidly multiplied into dozens, becoming a site for business, news, and debate. Coffeehouses as engines of communication and politics (Priority: 4/5): Coffeehouses fostered reading, discussion, and periodical culture, helping shape political and scientific discourse. They were criticized as noisy, masculinized, and politically dangerous, and Charles II briefly tried to suppress them. Coffee, empire, slavery, and plantation capitalism (Priority: 5/5): European demand pushed coffee cultivation into colonial plantations in Java, Saint-Domingue/Haiti, and Brazil, where production depended on enslaved labor and later shaped revolutionary and post-slavery economic transformations. Industrialization, branding, and modern consumption (Priority: 4/5): The 19th and 20th centuries saw coffee become a mass consumer product in the United States and Brazil, aided by industrial roasting, branded products, mechanization, and later specialty/café culture and espresso.

Key Arguments: Coffee’s historical importance lies less in taste than in its psychoactive effects: it keeps people awake, more talkative, and more willing to exchange ideas. Coffeehouses changed public life by creating neutral, information-rich spaces where merchants, writers, and scientists could meet across social boundaries. Because coffee is non-alcoholic, it was acceptable for work, prayer, trade, and daytime sociability in ways alcohol was not. European coffee demand was inseparable from colonial expansion and slavery; plantation growth in the Caribbean and Brazil made coffee a global commodity at enormous human cost. Coffeehouses produced commercial advantage by concentrating information, leading to institutions like Lloyd’s and eventually the Stock Exchange. Modern coffee culture split into mass corporate coffee and artisanal/specialty coffee, while much of the world’s production still comes from poorly compensated smallholders. The drink’s form and status changed dramatically over time: from medicinal infusion and Ottoman coffeehouses to espresso bars, instant coffee, and branded supermarket products.

Data Points: First London coffeehouse: c. 1652 - The first coffeehouse in London opened as a shed run by Pascal Rose near St. Michael’s Cornhill. Coffeehouses in London city: 83 - Within about 10 years of the first census, the City of London had 83 coffeehouses. First Western European record: 1575 - An Ottoman merchant’s death in Venice included coffee-making paraphernalia in his effects. Java coffee market share in Amsterdam exchange: about 90% by the end of the 1720s - After Dutch colonial planting in Java, most coffee traded through Amsterdam came from Java rather than Mokka. Saint-Domingue coffee production: well over half of world output by the 1760s–1770s - French Caribbean plantations, especially in present-day Haiti, dominated global coffee supply using enslaved labor. Brazil’s share of world coffee: more than 50%, sometimes up to 70% (1870–1950) - Brazil became the dominant global supplier after scaling up plantation production. Brazil slave trade abolition: 1850 - The Brazilian slave trade ended in 1850, though slavery itself continued until 1888. Brazil slavery abolition: 1888 - Slavery in Brazil ended very late compared with other coffee-producing regions. American branded coffee share: about 85% by 1913 - Industrial roasting and branding transformed the U.S. coffee market into one dominated by branded products. Confederate Army coffee ration: enough for about 10 cups a day - Civil War-era military coffee consumption helped create lasting mass demand in the United States.

Pivotal Quotes: "coffee changed the intellectual culture in countries around the world" — Melvyn Bragg: Opening framing of coffee as a driver of modern sociability and ideas. "there are two aspects to this: one is the layout of the coffee house" — Judith Hawley: Explaining why coffeehouses became discursive, democratic spaces with long tables and shared seating. "what we end up with, is the destruction of first the coffee industry in Haiti" — Jonathan Morris: Describing the Haitian Revolution’s impact on plantation coffee production and the post-revolutionary collapse of the industry.

Implications: Coffee is not just a beverage but a force that shaped public debate, capitalism, empire, and everyday routines. Its history also exposes persistent inequalities in global supply chains and the social power of who controls information and access.

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