In Our Time
In Our Time

Coffee

Melvyn Bragg and guests discuss the history and social impact of coffee. From its origins in Ethiopia, coffea arabica spread through the Ottoman Empire before reaching Western Europe where, in the 17th century, coffee houses were becoming established. There, caffeinated customers stayed awake for lo

Topics Discussed

Episode Summary

Executive Summary: The episode traces coffee from its legendary Ethiopian origins to a global commodity that reshaped sociability, politics, labor, and trade. It shows how coffeehouses became hubs of news, business, and ideas in the Ottoman world and Europe, while plantation expansion relied heavily on slavery before industrialization and modern chains transformed coffee again.

Main Topics: Origins and early religious use (Priority: 5/5): Coffee is introduced through legends of a goat herder in Ethiopia/Egypt and first consumption as berries/cherries, paste, or infusion tied to prayer, alertness, and Sufi devotion. Spread through the Ottoman Empire and into Europe (Priority: 5/5): Coffee traveled along trade and pilgrimage routes from Yemen and the Red Sea into Constantinople, the Levant, Venice, and then northern Europe, initially as a medicinal or exotic product. Coffeehouses as social and political institutions (Priority: 5/5): In London and other cities, coffeehouses offered a non-alcoholic, male-coded space for conversation, reading, news exchange, and business networking, helping shape public discourse and periodical culture. Commerce, branding, and financial specialization (Priority: 5/5): Coffeehouses became specialized commercial nodes for merchants, stockbrokers, insurers, and traders, with information sharing giving economic advantage and institutions like Lloyd’s and the Stock Exchange emerging from them. Plantation expansion, slavery, and empire (Priority: 5/5): European demand drove colonial coffee production in places like Haiti and Brazil, relying on enslaved labor; Haitian revolution destroyed much of Haiti’s industry, while Brazil later became the dominant supplier. Changing taste, production, and consumption styles (Priority: 4/5): The discussion contrasts earlier boiled, stale coffee with later improved roasting, milk additions, espresso, instant coffee, and the rise of cafés, chains, and home consumption, especially in Italy and modern Britain. Criticism, gender, and cultural symbolism (Priority: 4/5): Coffee faced satirical attacks for allegedly weakening masculinity, encouraging gossip, wasting time, and wasting money; later it became associated with class, politeness, liberalism, and modern urban identity.

Key Arguments: Coffee’s early significance lay in wakefulness for prayer and devotional life, especially among Sufis, before it became a recreational drink. Coffeehouses succeeded because they paired caffeine’s alertness with a public space for conversation, reading, and business that alcohol-based venues could not provide. The spread of coffee in Europe was initially slow because it was treated as medicine, not an everyday beverage, and its commercial/social infrastructure developed only gradually. Coffeehouses materially changed public life by circulating news, pamphlets, and political debate outside elite court and university settings. Global coffee expansion was inseparable from empire and slavery: demand in Europe and America drove plantation systems in the Caribbean and Brazil. Modern coffee culture is shaped as much by industrial processing, branding, and café formats as by the bean itself, producing very different experiences across regions and classes. Smallholder producers remain underpaid relative to the value created downstream, making the industry historically and presently unequal.

Data Points: First coffee house in London: 1652 - Opened in London by Pasque Rose near St. Michael’s Cornhill Coffeehouses in the City of London: 83 - A city census about 10 years after the first London coffee house Coffee in Venice record: 1575 - Death inventory of an Ottoman merchant in Venice included coffee-making items Coffee reached Constantinople: around the 16th century - Expansion from Yemen/Ottoman trade routes Java coffee shipments to Amsterdam: by around 1711 - Dutch East India Company began shipping plantation coffee from Java Java share of Amsterdam Exchange coffee: about 90% by the end of the 1720s - Coffee trade shifted from Mocha to Java San Domingue coffee share: well over half of the world’s coffee in the 1760s–1770s - French Caribbean plantation boom in present-day Haiti Haitian coffee plantations destroyed: about 1,000 plantations - Haitian Revolution devastated the plantation system Brazilian coffee production share: more than 50%, at times up to 70%, from 1870 to 1950 - Brazil became the dominant world supplier Brazil slave-trade abolition: 1850 - Slave trade ended before slavery itself in Brazil Brazil slavery abolition: 1888 - Coffee production later shifted toward indentured labor and mechanization American branded coffee share: about 85% by 1913 - Industrial roasting and branding transformed U.S. consumption Espresso extraction time: about 40 seconds - Early 20th-century Italian espresso machines shortened preparation Common coffee ration in Civil War armies: enough for about 10 cups per soldier per day - Military consumption helped create U.S. demand after the Civil War

Pivotal Quotes: "Coffee houses provided a number of things that taverns didn't do, and I think this is crucial." — Judith Hawley: Explaining why coffeehouses became important civic and intellectual spaces "once there was a drink that was actually doing the wakeful as opposed to the sleeping, that obviously enabled it to be used in settings such as work practices" — Jonathan Morris: On why non-alcoholic coffee fit commercial and negotiating environments "the end of it, what we end up with, is the destruction of first the coffee industry in Haiti" — Jonathan Morris: Summarizing the revolutionary collapse of Haitian coffee plantations

Implications: Coffee shaped modern public life, global capitalism, and everyday habits, but its history also exposes colonial violence and labor inequality. Today’s specialty and chain markets still rest on systems that leave many producers underpaid while consumers see coffee as identity, convenience, and sociability.

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